Litter box avoidance and inappropriate
elimination are the most frequent and irritating disagreements
humans have with their kitties. Inappropriate urination and
defecation may mean that the litter box facilities are sub
par, that there’s a medical problem or, in the case of
marking behavior, that your cat is trying to signal something.
Cats use elimination of urine (and sometimes feces) for
communication – a kind of pee-mail, if you will. That can be
a sign that something is wrong. In the latter situation, your
kitty is not being mean or spiteful. She’s got a problem and
you’ll have to figure out what it is if you want it to go
away.
Punishing your cat for inappropriate elimination will not
solve the problem. It will only teach her to fear and avoid
you, and eliminate when you’re not around. In fact, it can
actually make the problem worse, since inappropriate
elimination is often caused by stress, and punishment will
only add to her stress level.
When your cat eliminates outside the box, you
should first schedule an appointment with your veterinarian.
Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD), a group of
disorders and diseases affecting the urinary tract, and colon
disorders, such as irritable bowel disease, can cause
inappropriate elimination. Symptoms of FLUTD include frequent
voiding, straining at the end of urination, and blood in the
urine. If your cat shows any of these signs, schedule an
appointment immediately. Both males and females are at risk,
but males are more likely to develop life-threatening
blockages. If your cat strains to urinate and produces only a
tiny amount of urine, rush him to the veterinarian. This is a
life-threatening emergency.
Once your veterinarian rules out a physical
problem, then you should start to unravel the problem by
looking at what’s going on in your cat’s life. Watch
carefully and find out when and where she is eliminating
inappropriately, and what’s happening in the household at
the time. Recognizing the reasons for litter box avoidance and
addressing the cause will help you find a solution to the
problem. With understanding, patience, and persistence, most
such problems can be overcome. The top six reasons and
solutions are:
1. Dirty Litter Box
A common reason for litter box avoidance is the cat’s
natural cleanliness. If you think the box smells bad, just
imagine how it smells to your cat, since she has 200 million
odor-sensitive cells in her nose compared to your 5 million.
If she is turning up her nose at the box and eliminating
elsewhere, it could be that it’s not clean enough and
offends her sensitive olfactory apparatus. In the wild,
there’s a good reason for such fastidiousness. Predators
locate prey by scent. This is one good reason why cats are so
careful about covering their waste – to keep bigger
predators from locating them. A dirty litter box can make your
cat feel vulnerable.
Clean the box often. Scoop out the soiled litter and solid
wastes daily or twice a day, and change the litter and scrub
the box with warm, soapy water weekly if you are using regular
clay litter. Don’t use harsh cleaners, such as bleach, to
clean the box; they may offend your cat’s delicate sense of
smell further and add to the problem.
Some cats are simply fussier than others, so a weekly
scrubbing might not be enough. If so, you might try a clumping
litter. With clumping litters, the litter needs changing less
frequently, and still remains relatively odor free. By
scooping out the clumps and solid wastes once or twice a day,
depending upon the number of cats you have, you can make all
but the most sensitive cats happy. Ultimately, you and your
cat will have to reach an agreement on the cleaning frequency.
2. Placement
Location is also vital. If your cat doesn’t like the litter
box’s location, she may not use it. For example, if you
place the litter box too close to her food and water dishes,
she may avoid the box since cats don’t like to eat and
eliminate in the same area. If the box isn’t easily
accessible – for example, down in the basement or up on the
top floor – she may not be able to get there in time, or may
think it’s too much trouble. If she has to brave some
stressor to get to the box, such as a noisy water heater, the
washer and dryer, or a dominant cat’s territory, she may
look for a safer place to eliminate. Cats like quiet, safe,
private places to do what they have to do. Follow your cat and
observe what’s going on.
If location is the problem, move the litter box to an area
that allows the cat privacy but is accessible and convenient
for cleaning. Some people prefer keeping the box in the
bathroom, but in a multi-cat household that can get crowded.
Consider using a closet in a spare bedroom or a
well-ventilated porch with easy access. Some owners locate
litter boxes in a rarely frequented second bathroom or even in
the bathtub. Try several locations until you find one she will
use consistently.
3. Litter Changes
If a change in litter box behavior occurs after you’ve
switched the type or brand of litter, try changing back. Your
cat may not like the new litter. Cats are individuals and what
appeals to one cat may not appeal to another. Some are highly
perfumed to mask odors from human noses, but perfumes are
offensive to some cats; other litters just don’t have the
right feel. Cats evolved from desert animals and a litter with
the texture of sand is usually well accepted.
Experiment with several types to see what he likes best. Buy a
small box or bag of each – test clumping and non-clumping
clay (try the unscented versions), recycled paper, wood
byproducts, plant-based material – the varieties are
practically endless. Fill several boxes with different kinds,
and see which one your cat prefers. With all these choices you
are bound to find one that suits. Choosing a litter should be
a team effort. If you find yourself needing to switch litters,
try changing the litter gradually. Slowly add more of the new
litter into the old to increase the chances of your cat
accepting the switch.
If you are bringing a formerly outdoor cat indoors, and he is
not using the litter box, it could be that the litter is not
what he’s used to. Try filling the box with clean dirt or
sand – whatever he’s been using in the yard. After he’s
using the box consistently, very gradually, over the next two
or three weeks, mix the dirt with increasing amounts of the
litter you want him to use.
4. Box Issues
The size, shape, and depth of the litter box can also affect
your cat’s behavior. She may reject the box if, for some
reason, she doesn’t like it. Hooded litter boxes are popular
with some cats, but most don’t like the confining nature of
them and feel trapped when using such a box – a particular
problem in multicat households with dominance disputes. Large
or overweight cats may find the opening to a covered box too
small, or may not have enough room to maneuver inside such a
box, and longhaired cats may have trouble keeping their fur
clean.
Older cats, or cats with health problems, such as arthritis,
may have trouble stepping into boxes with high sides, or into
boxes with smaller openings. If cats have any health problem
that makes movement difficult, provide a sturdy ramp in front
of the box, and a step down inside, if needed.
Some cats dislike litter box liners. Remove the liner if you
notice your cat pulling it up or leaving claw marks in the
plastic.
Providing several boxes of different sizes and types may help
resolve the litter box problem.
4. Box Issues
The size, shape, and depth of the litter box can also affect
your cat’s behavior. She may reject the box if, for some
reason, she doesn’t like it. Hooded litter boxes are popular
with some cats, but most don’t like the confining nature of
them and feel trapped when using such a box – a particular
problem in multicat households with dominance disputes. Large
or overweight cats may find the opening to a covered box too
small, or may not have enough room to maneuver inside such a
box, and longhaired cats may have trouble keeping their fur
clean.
Older cats, or cats with health problems, such as arthritis,
may have trouble stepping into boxes with high sides, or into
boxes with smaller openings. If cats have any health problem
that makes movement difficult, provide a sturdy ramp in front
of the box, and a step down inside, if needed.
Some cats dislike litter box liners. Remove the liner if you
notice your cat pulling it up or leaving claw marks in the
plastic.
Providing several boxes of different sizes and types may help
resolve the litter box problem.
Environmental changes
5. Environmental Changes
Cats are creatures of habit and they don't like changes in
their environment. If your cat stops using the litter box
after a change has taken place in the household, it could be
that the change is causing her to become anxious. Anxiety is
one of the more common feline emotional problems, and may
contribute to a number of behavior problems, including house
soiling. Have you just brought home a new child, spouse,
family member, or pet? Have you moved or remodeled the house?
Have you recently changed your routine – gone back to work,
say, after being at home all day? Even healthy cats can become
stressed and anxious by changes that might seem minor to you.
Look at the situation from the cat’s viewpoint and see what
might be going on.
During household changes, reassure your cat, give him extra
attention and treats, and keep the litter box squeaky clean.
This will help him regain his feeling of safety and routine,
and help him adjust more quickly. If you’ve added a new baby
to the household, check out the helpful advice on Helping Your
Cat and New Baby Get Along; if a new pet has arrived, read Pet
to Pet Socialization – Adding a Kitten. If you’ve moved,
check out How to Introduce Your Cat to Your New Home.
6. Territorial Disputes
If you have more than one cat, disputes can arise over litter
box usage. Cats are territorial by nature. Their societies are
sometimes structured in a hierarchical manner, governed by
strict rules of conduct. In multicat households, the dominant
cat will sometimes leave her feces uncovered as a form of
scent marking, to announce her presence and status. Uncovered
feces mean that the territory is taken. If the other cats feel
they’re encroaching on a dominant cat’s territory,
they’ll be reluctant to use that box.
Also, some cats don’t like sharing their litter box with
other cats. The solution is to provide a litter box and a
private location for each cat. As a rule, you should have one
litter box for every cat in the household. Also, consider
keeping an extra box in another location to circumvent
disputes or clashes. If a cat doesn’t want to approach the
main box area while another cat is there, she can detour to
the other box to do her business. This prevents the cat from
choosing a less acceptable location if the need is urgent.
7. Overcrowding
Having a companion for kitty is a good way to keep him from
becoming lonely when you’re off earning the cat food.
However, overcrowding – having too many cats for the space
you have available – can create considerable stress. Many
territorial-type behavior problems arise from overcrowding,
including house soiling. For cats to feel secure, they must
have an area to call their own, to which they can retreat when
threatened. This is particularly true for indoor-only multicat
households. Make sure you can provide facilities for each of
your cats. You can also expand the territorial range by adding
cat trees, outside enclosures Selecting a Cat Enclosure, cat
condos, kitty hideouts, window perches, cat shelves, screened
patios, and so on. You don’t have to spend a fortune – cut
holes in several cardboard boxes, turn them upside down, and
place them strategically. Make sure each cat is given enough
love and attention, too.
8. Spraying
This marking behavior is not connected to other litter box
problems, because the reason for the behavior is completely
different. Unaltered male and female cats spray urine to mark
their territory. While more common in males, both genders can
spray. Spraying has sexual and dominance-type connotations;
the behavior being most prevalent in intact cats with a full
complement of sex hormones. This is why spaying and neutering
usually ends the behavior.
It’s easy to tell the difference between spraying and
urinating. During spraying, the cat backs up to a vertical
surface, raises his tail (which often quivers), treads, and
sprays urine onto the vertical surface. This is as opposed to
squatting to urinate. Spaying and neutering often eliminates
spraying and is the first step to take toward resolution of
the problem.
However, spraying can also be a sign that a neutered male or
spayed female cat has some issues related to anxiety or stress
(e.g. a territorial dispute or a disturbance in their
routine). Battles for dominance or territory may cause
spraying in a multicat household, regardless of the cats’
neuter status, and you’ll need to resolve the dispute before
the behavior will cease. A project such as this can be
challenging. Spraying may also occur if a reclusive cat sees
other cats outside in the yard, an area he likely considers an
extension of his territory. One little wrinkle in the
diagnosis of stress-related urine marking is that it does not
always occur in the form of spraying. Sometimes urine marking
may be performed from the squatting posture. The key to
diagnosing this curve ball delivery is to pay attention to the
sites on which urine is deposited. Litter box problems result
in deposition of urine in relatively uninteresting “other”
locations, usually on rugs or carpets in out-of-the way
locations that are convenient for the cat. Horizontal urine
marking, however, might be found on a person’s possessions,
on new things brought into the house, on a particular
bedspread, on the stovetop, on a heating register, etc. When
the location of urine deposition becomes as interesting (or
perplexing) as this, consider anxiety-related urine marking,
even if the cat “performs” in the squatting posture.
Urine-marked areas must be well cleaned with a non
ammonia-based cleaner and then the area should be blocked off
so that the cat no longer has access to it for a while, or the
significance of the area can be transformed by moving the food
dishes there. Products for cleaning pet stains that contain
enzymes or bacteria work by eliminating odor-causing
chemicals. Such products are usually effective. It’s
important to remove all traces of the urine (and/or feces) or
the scent will attract kitty back to the spot. But you need to
address the problem’s underlying cause to end the cycle of
inappropriate elimination; otherwise, your cat will just move
to another area to spray. Ask your veterinarian for advice if
you’re stumped for a solution. Certain medications combined
with behavior modification techniques can help resolve the
problem.
Remember:
Don’t perform disliked procedures, such as pilling and
nail clipping, near the litter box. Your cat may associate
these activities with the litter box and avoid it.
Don’t try to catch your cat to perform disliked
procedures (such as those listed above) while he’s using
the litter box.
Don’t do anything else that might cause your cat to
associate its litter box with unpleasantness. E.g. Don’t
force him into the box after an accident; don’t punish
your cat when he's near the litter box (or any other
place, for that matter).
Don’t rub the cat's nose in urine or feces if he
eliminates outside the box.
Don’t use harsh disinfectants or cleaners to clean the
litter box.
Do check with your veterinarian to rule out possible
medical contributions.
Do clean the box daily.
Do make sure your cat has a quiet, private, stress-free
litter box location.
Do praise and reward your cat when he uses the box
correctly.
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